Ocean Treasures: A Deep Dive into Pearls
Erin’s Love Affair with Pearls
Erin’s love of pearls began in her early twenties during a visit to the vibrant pearl markets of Kota Kinabalu in Borneo, Malaysia; these magical ocean treasures caught her eye and never quite let go! While travelling through Borneo, she explored the reefs around Gaya Island and snorkelled in the world-renowned waters of Sipadan, where she swam with schools of barracuda, spotted breathtaking giant clams, and shared a magical moment with a sea turtle. These experiences left a lasting impression and deepened her connection to the sea. Since then, the ocean has remained a constant source of inspiration in Erin’s work and pearls, with their quiet beauty and sense of mystery, have featured throughout her collections.
This blog post is a celebration of pearls: their charm, their variety, and their rich history. We’ll guide you through the different types of pearls, explain some common pearl terms, and help you feel more confident when choosing your own.
A Brief Pearl History
Long before diamonds became the gemstone of choice, pearls were considered the ultimate symbol of wealth and status. Their rarity made them incredibly valuable—so much so that, before cultured pearls existed, divers would risk their lives free-diving to the ocean floor in search of them. That all changed in 1893, when Kokichi Mikimoto successfully cultured the first pearl in Japan, making these ocean-born gems more widely available. One of the most famous moments in pearl history came in 1917, when Pierre Cartier traded a double strand of natural pearls for a Fifth Avenue mansion in New York. Today, pearls remain just as timeless, with China now producing over 70% of the world’s supply.
The Difference Between Natural and Cultured Pearls
All pearls start the same way—with a tiny irritant inside a mollusc. In response, the mollusc coats the intruder in layers of shimmering nacre, slowly building a pearl over time.
Natural pearls form entirely by chance and are incredibly rare. Cultured pearls, by contrast, get a little human encouragement: a bead or bit of tissue is gently inserted to kick-start the process, but the mollusc still does the real work.
Out of tens of thousands of mollusc species, only a few are used for pearl farming—each producing one of the four main types: Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian, and Freshwater pearls.
Types of Cultured Pearls
Akoya Pearls
The classic pearl most people picture—small, round, and beautifully lustrous. Akoya pearls are usually white or cream with pink or silver overtones, and are especially popular in elegant strand necklaces. They’re mainly farmed in Japan and China.
South Sea Pearls
Often the largest and most luxurious of all pearls, South Sea pearls are grown in Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Their creamy white, silver, or golden tones come from the oyster species they grow in, and their thick nacre gives them a rich, satiny glow.
Tahitian Pearls
Also known as black pearls, Tahitian pearls are anything but plain. Grown in the waters around French Polynesia, they naturally come in striking shades—think peacock green, charcoal grey, deep purple, and more. Mysterious, bold, and utterly beautiful.
Freshwater Pearls
Cultured in lakes and rivers—mainly in China—freshwater pearls are the most widely available. They come in an incredible variety of shapes, colours, and sizes, often at a more accessible price point. Versatile and fun, they’re a favourite with both designers and everyday wearers.
PEARL DICTIONARY
Coin
Flat, round pearls that resemble coins, prized for their unique shape and smooth surface.
Baroque
Pearls with irregular, non-spherical shapes, often valued for their distinctive, organic forms.
Keshi
Small, natural pearls formed as by-products of pearl cultivation, usually irregular and without a nucleus.
Circled Baroque
Baroque pearls featuring natural concentric ridges or rings around their surface.
Round
Pearls that are perfectly spherical, considered the most classic and valuable shape.
Biwa
Freshwater pearls originally from Lake Biwa, Japan, known for their unique shapes and colors.
Button
Pearls shaped like a flattened sphere or button, often used in earrings or rings.
Potato
Pearls shaped irregularly, resembling the shape of a small potato; a type of baroque pearl.
Mabe / Blister
Pearls grown against the inside shell of an oyster, resulting in a domed, half-spherical shape.
Mikimoto Pearls
High-quality cultured pearls pioneered by Kokichi Mikimoto, the father of cultured pearls.
Ming
Small, round, and usually very lustrous pearls often used in traditional Asian jewelry.
Graduated
A string of pearls arranged in size order, from smaller to larger, creating a graduated effect.
Seed Pearls
Very tiny pearls, often less than 2mm in diameter, traditionally used in intricate jewelry like vintage or antique designs.
Pearl Care
Pearls are delicate gemstones with a Mohs hardness of 2.5–3, making them prone to scratches and damage from daily wear, so they’re not ideal for everyday pieces like engagement rings. Wearing a pearl necklace regularly can actually help maintain its luster thanks to your skin’s natural oils, but the silk string will need periodic re-stringing depending on use. To keep pearls looking their best, avoid exposure to chemicals like cosmetics, hairspray, and cleaning products, and store them separately to prevent scratching. It’s best to remove pearl jewelry before showering, swimming, or doing dishes, and to keep them away from warm, humid environments. At Erin Cox Jewellery, we recommend regular checks on the string and settings, and we offer a complimentary health check to help keep your pearls beautiful for a lifetime.
Hungry for more?
Shop our pearl collection.
Or check out our blog post JUNE BIRTHSTONE: 10 FUN FACTS (PEARLS)